The charm of Champa Cambodia
It was around 10pm when the tuk tuk turned down the dirt driveway, signalling the end of an excruciatingly long travel day. What should have taken nine hours and been a pleasant journey took fifteen and was an ordeal. The mantra, “Travel is an adventure” was on replay in my head on my way to Champa Cambodia.
Arriving with waves of anxiety, a bursting bladder and clothes that needed peeling off my sweat soaked skin, I was warmly welcomed by the family owners. I felt I had arrived home rather than at a destination. I could see little of where I was but sensed much. This was Champa Lodge, instantly heart-warming and soul saving.I’d travelled to Kampot province in Southern Cambodia before and knew well of its enchantment. On a panoramic stage of beauty, rural Cambodia performs with life and landscape. The region also shining gastronomically, producing the world renowned peppercorns sought after by chefs and foodies globally.
Having run out of the peppercorn stash from the previous visit, refilling prompted my return. Once you’ve tasted Kampot pepper, there is no substitute. Peace was also a priority and it was potential at Champa Lodge.
I lived for five days in my Sugar Palm House, a traditional Khmer wooden house, with open shutters and exposed beams. Sensual aromas from the essential oil burner wafted, as did the riverside breeze.
The balcony’s day bed was a perfect platform to observe life at Champa. Rice paddies coloured as green as frogs stole my consciousness, as did the tall sugar palm trees and the local “Sugarman” who, at 4pm daily, vigorously climbed each one to collect palm juice. Chants from a nearby Buddhist pagoda, clucking chickens, gobbling turkeys, barking dogs and mooing cows was all music to my ears.
Early evening the drone of local fishing boats heading out for the overnight catch signalled happy hour, an invigorating shower and a 30 metre walk past the cow to wine and dine at Champa’s unique open air bar and restaurant where gastronomic heaven lives. A changing blackboard menu boasts speciality dishes of international and regional Cambodian cuisine, ingredients sourced from Champa’s own organic lots. From luscious Belgium beer stews to traditional fragrant Khmer curries, the food is fine as is the list of wines and Belgium beers.
Fierce storms descended around midnight, the sky suddenly opening and drenching the ground. With a glass of aged Havana rum in hand, I watched the lightshows from my balcony. The storm’s thunderous sounds combined with the insect orchestra, playing a soothing soundtrack and back in the king size bed, sheathed in a mosquito net, sleep came easy.Early morning I was gently woken by the boats returning in procession. Opening the shutters revealed the extraordinary view. So intensely beautiful, it appeared as a freshly painted canvas each day.
Champa’s location is the best of both worlds. The quiet town of Kampot is only four kilometres away; ten minutes in a tuk tuk or twenty-five picturesque minutes on a bicycle. Locals are friendly, French architecture charismatic and cool riverside cafes and bars are ultimate spots to watch the sunset over the Elephant Mountains.
The lodge sits riverside and I rolled down it in one of the lodge’s kayaks, paddling around the river streams and inlets for hours.
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There was just the kayak, the river, the scenery, and me. For further therapy, I slid overboard and submersed myself in the cool water. At one point I simply drifted, my world fora moment becoming still and quiet.
I departed Southern Cambodia with a desire to return. I left Champa Lodge with a bag packed with peppercorns, a soul replenished with peace and a heart beating with joy.
By Genine Spicer
Genine is a contributor for an up and coming edition of EATT magazine for iPad and is also an accomplished travel writer and volunteer for several international charities.
Her works are honest, emotive and inspiring she writes like she travels with a “wanderlust” and always “travels with a knife, fork and heart”
Genine can be contacted at https://eattmag.com/support/
References to Champa Lodge
https://www.facebook.com/ChampaLodge
The charm of Champa. Cambodia
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